The Cotswolds encompasses over 50 towns and villages. It is known to be one of England’s most picturesque regions, renowned for its charming villages, rolling green hills, and winding country lanes. The name “Cotswolds” comes from “Cot,” meaning sheep pens, and “Wolds,” meaning rolling hills. This “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” spans 800 square miles across five counties and is comprised of 80% farmland.
I had the privilege of staying in Dursley for a month, fully immersing myself in the charm of Cotswold village life!
Dursley’s 18th-century Market House is the town’s centerpiece, standing at the junction of its three main trading streets: Parsonage, Long, and Silver Street. This market town has a population of 7,463.
The pedestrian street of Parsonage is lined with charity shops, where you might meet Jane, an 88-year-old local who volunteers one day a week at each of the five charity shops. If you time it right, you could be assisted by Jane in a different shop every day of the week!
The community in Dursley is knit by a strong sense of camaraderie and town spirit. Whether it’s the lively farmers’ market at the town council hall, offering local food and crafts, or the weekly book exchange at St. James the Great Church, there’s always something bringing people together.
Local sporting clubs, including the highly competitive bowls club, are a big part of the community. The town may seem quiet, but if you’re walking the woods above Drake Lane on a bank holiday weekend, you’ll hear the excited shouts as all generations come together to compete on the green at the bowls club.
The Broadwell Springs, which run through the town, have long been a vital water source for those without their own wells. As the Ewelme Stream flows down to the valley floor, it once powered several woolen mills along its short course. One of these mills was originally built for weaving but was later repurposed for making pins, bicycles, and engineering components.
For the month of July I called this blue door with the wisteria growing over it my home! John and Louisa became my village parents and kindly rented me their beloved cottage extension just down the street from the village center. We enjoyed many conversations in their expansive garden.
Louisa, an avid gardener, takes great pride in her abundant blossoms and spends her summers gathering lavender and rose blossoms to craft sachets for linen cupboards, eye pillows, and more. She also gathers fresh flowers from the garden each week to adorn their church hall and sanctuary.
One of the most fascinating things I learned from her and John were about their legacy roses. Over the years, they had propagated trimmings from family member’s gardens including their parents and grandparents. Their grandparents had been cultivating roses for years before them and had trimmings from their own grandparent’s gardens.
It was like a living generational history being grown in their garden that spanned more than six generations. They assured me that should they ever move, they will of course bring the family roses with them.
Louisa also volunteers for the “Dursley in Bloom" society which maintains the many flower pots and planters around town.
St. James the Great Church
One Sunday evening, I had the pleasure of attending a beautiful Evensong service that featured the local choir and organist. Evensong is a traditional prayer service rooted in Anglican tradition that blends scripture and music to create a reflective atmosphere.
The parish church itself dates back to the 13th century, with bells—installed in 1904—that still ring throughout the day. Centrally located, the church remains a key part of the community’s rich history.
The community prayer wall was deeply moving, offering a space to share and reflect on prayer requests from others. The church, open all week for prayer and contemplation, encouraged visitors to add their own requests and lift up those already on the wall.
It was a blessing to be in a place where prayer was so active, fostering a sense of connection and hope. The requests ranged from illness to gratitude, making the wall a powerful symbol of both need and healing.
St. James the Great Church could be seen from my cottage window and garden, and its bells were a joy to hear.
Whenever I heard the bells, I would step into the garden or open the window to listen more closely. They played everything from beloved hymns to nursery rhymes like “Frère Jacques.”
Sundays felt magical as the bells pealed for the morning services, reminding me of the scene in the 1950s Cinderella cartoon when she and Prince Charming descend the steps after their wedding.
The local ringers practiced on Thursday evenings for several hours, so I made it a tradition to have dinner in the garden on those evenings, watching the sunset with the bells providing a perfect ambiance.
The town is encircled by lush natural landscapes, with numerous footpaths leading out of Dursley. These trails quickly ascend into woods and meadows, guiding you along the stunning paths of the Cotswold Way National Trail. The trail is a 102 mile footpath that links the villages and towns of this area together. Some people walk it in 10 days known as the “10 in 10 walk,” 10 miles per day for 10 days.
Stinchcombe Woods
Part of my regular adventures included long walks through the trails of Stinchcombe Woods, where I often met neighbors and their dogs. One morning, I met Keith and his four dogs, who told me about a family of nine badgers disrupting a path with their burrows. Several nights a week, Keith and a neighboring cat hike up to the woods to feed the badgers peanuts, bread, and chicken.
I was intrigued by the large holes that I had assumed were fox or raccoon dens, but Keith explained they were part of a "badger sett"—a series of tunnels and chambers where the badger clan lives. Badgers, a protected species, play a vital role in the ecosystem, and Keith hopes they’ll make the woods their permanent home.
The Climb to Cam Peak!
Cam Peak is a hilltop along the Cotswold Way National Trail just 2 miles from the village with breathtaking views over the village and countryside. Standing at 602 feet, it’s a marvelous spot to visit at anytime of the day, though I particularly loved to climb up there to enjoy the soft lighting of early mornings or evenings.
From the peak, you can also see the Tyndale Monument, which sits atop a hill above North Nibley. This 111-foot-tall tower was built in 1866 in memory of William Tyndale, the first person to translate the New Testament into English in 1525.
