My Stay with the Berwert Family
I spent a month with the Berwert family in their generations-old chalet, nestled along Lake Sarnen in the village of Wilen. This charming home, Reto’s childhood residence, is where he and Andrea are now raising their two boys and three fluffy rabbits. I stayed in their converted attic, an ideal studio apartment with epic views from the kitchen window, making it a perfect spot for both work and exploration.
The Berwert family, serious outdoor enthusiasts, had a garage brimming with e-bikes, skis, snowboards, sleds, fishing poles, tents, and hiking sticks. Andrea kindly lent me her beloved e-bike, “Roberta,” who became my chief exploration companion. Together, we roamed over hills, through valleys, and around the lake.
Above the chalet, numerous hiking paths crisscrossed the mountains and hillsides. I adored daily explorations of these trails, many dotted with bright red benches perfectly positioned for picnic breaks and reading spots.
While climbing the hills and exploring the nearby paths across the mountains, I confess to having the Sound of Music soundtrack playing, I would pop in a single air pod and have the natural sounds of Switzerland overlaid with Julie Andrew’s “the hills are alive….”
The Sarnen valley has been inhabited since the Stone and Bronze Ages, with the small villages of Giswil, Wilen, and Sachseln nestled into the hillsides around the lake. The historic main town of Sarnen serves as the supply and transportation hub for these villages. The area’s population is about 10,000, though it doesn’t even feel that large since everyone is so spread out.
The locals speak a dialect known as Aemmenmatt Swiss German. “Grüezi” is the polite common greeting, often exchanged with fellow walkers and cyclists.
The town is friendly, full of warm smiles and welcomes. Upon my arrival, several locals quickly helped me translate my destination to the bus driver and ensured I got off at the right stop. Many townspeople appreciated the chance to practice their English with me since they don’t get many visitors.
Snow Day Adventure
The weather was ever changing during my stay, we had everything from multiple sunny days at a warm 72 degrees all the way down to freezing in the low 20’s with a few days of snowfall! I happily queued up the Christmas movies and music and decided to revel in it.
One snowy afternoon, Andrea called and asked if I’d like to go for a snow trek in one of her favorite forests. We climbed into the car and drove the winding mountain road above the house. We quickly found ourselves in huge snow drifts, with trees so heavily covered in snow that their branches hung to the ground.
We parked at a lodge on top of the mountain called Langis and then went trekking through the fresh powder. It was another world up there. I felt honored to be shown Andrea’s special place where she walks along the river and admires the beautiful trees at all times of the year. I felt like a little kid wading through the snow that was well past our knees. We had a delightful afternoon clabbering through the snow, laughing as I would inevitably tumble over as this snow trekking is a new skill set for me.
Traditional Swiss Spa Day
The Romans first established a spa in Baden, Switzerland, in 84 AD, using hot mineral springs to heal aching muscles and battle wounds. For centuries, Switzerland has been renowned for its thermal baths and springs. Today, spa culture remains an essential part of Swiss life and community.
Near my chalet was the Wilerbad Spa, a local favorite, where I enjoyed a full day indulging in its incredible offerings. The spa spans two generous floors, featuring both indoor and outdoor saltwater pools, a Finnish sauna, a Himalayan salt sauna, a seasonal sauna with herbal infusions fresh from the garden, and a steam bath with a glittering Swarovski stone ceiling complete with a multi-changing light show. There were also wonderful quiet zones and lounge spaces offering herbal teas, infused water, and delicious snacks.
My favorite sauna room was the Himalayan. It was warm but not excessively hot, and the glow from the salt stones made it visually stunning. The serene atmosphere of the salt room was unexpectedly delightful and peaceful, making it a standout experience.
Often before you see them, you hear the bells of Swiss Alpine cows. These bells have been used for centuries by dairy farmers to locate their cows in the large summer grazing fields.
“A Shocking Encounter While Cycling”
One day, I was cycling through the dandelion-covered fields, enjoying the marvelous views and the sound of the bells. I paused to take a picture and had a shocking experience—literally. As I pedaled my bike to the edge of the path to snap some photos, a gust of wind blew the seemingly innocent rope fencing against my leg, delivering a sharp electric shock that traveled throughout my body.
Startled, I moved to see what had happened and was zapped again as the wind blew the fencing into me once more. This time, the shock traveled through me and my e-bike, making me yell, “AAAHHH!!” and scramble to get back onto the path.
I laughed at the situation, grateful the shock wasn’t more powerful and that neither my pants nor the bike were damaged. I had never realized that these flimsy-looking strings around cow pastures were electrified. I naively thought the cows stayed in their fields out of habit, not because of electric fencing. Now I understood why the cows kept a wide berth from these seemingly innocent strips of ribbon.
Later, I learned from farmers that these temporary electric ribbons are easy to move and set up as they rotate the herds to different sections of the valley. Near roads and lakes, fencing is necessary, but up in the hills, it’s not needed.
Mirgg Llama Farm
One day I took “Roberta”, my faithful e-bike, to see the Schilter family and their farm. Their family farmed dairy for generations, until 20 years ago when they switched to llamas for wool and focused on eco-farming. Mother Alice has a background in herbal medicines and makes beautiful tea, compounds, and balms from everything they grow on the farm. Father Tony takes care of the over 50 wooly llamas, 4 alpacas, 2 donkeys, and 1 shepherd dog named Lucky.
Their son, Chato, guides llama trekking tours and when Chato isn’t leading tours, he works at the Ukrainian refugee camp in Giswil. Alice and her husband also host foster kids from around the county, using the farm’s animals for rehabilitation and confidence building for neurodivergent and at-risk teens.
The llamas were incredibly gentle, each with a distinct personality. The curious ones, eager for affection, would come right up to you, resting their faces against yours. Their velvet-soft lips and noses would gently breathe you in, feeling like a sacred welcoming ritual from these unique creatures. You would then wrap your arms around them in a hug and stroke their soft fur along their long necks.
Cyrus is 4 years old. He adorably was very ready to pose with me for a picture. His coloring reminded me of a giraffe.
After a tour of the farm, we took several of the llamas for a hiking adventure. Leonardo, my assigned walking buddy, was very well-behaved, only trying once to sneak a cheeky snack from a gardener’s wheelbarrow as we passed by. We walked through lovely forest areas, across meadows, and along grass-filled hillsides, all offering sumptuous views over the lake. Normally, I’m an avid horse rider when traveling in Europe, but this llama hike may have just given me a new favorite hobby.
